Jancis Robinson Dec/2009

Some American Gems

Although the US is now one of the three most successful exporters of wine to the UK, thanks chiefly to the extraordinary success of brands such as Blossom Hill and Gallo, It's not that easy for us Brits to find inspiring American wines. That's why I am particularly heartened by this collection of reds from California and Washington State (with a handful of very respectable Canadian reds) that have come our way by a variety of routes.

The great majority of these 83 wines were tasted by me on 11 Nov 2008 at British Airways in response to a tender for American reds suitable for their First Class cabins, but they are supplemented by notes made by Richard Hemming [NB: one of her team] at a tasting of wines from the Pacific Northwest shown in London earlier this year, and by my notes on a selection of top Washington State wines kindly brought over for me to taste by Gary Werner of Washington Wine.

At the BA tasting, I was much more impressed by the Pinot Noirs than I had been in previous similar tastings. Those submitted for this tasting anyway seemed much drier and more interesting than they used to be. With the exception of one example from Washington State, the Merlots were in general a bit disappointing, with lots of raw greenness and too many simple wines and wines with holes in the mid palate. But there were many fine Cabernets, Bordeaux blends and Syrahs - from Washington as well as from California.

Tasting notes are grouped by varietal/style, then by country or state, and listed alphabetically by name within each of those groups.  (NB: Only notes on Washington State wines follow below.)

SYRAH

Gramercy Cellars, John Lewis Syrah 2006 Walla Walla (17 pts) Drink 2009-13
Made by an experienced ex sommelier who moved to Washington after an illustrious career. Not as deep a crimson as the other Washington Syrahs tasted alongside. Appealing, well-balanced nose. Lively, racy fruit with some real refreshment value, not so unlike a really ripe Côte Rotie! Real lift on the finish of this wine. 13.9%

Cayuse, Cailloux Vineyard Syrah 2006 Walla Walla (16.5 pts) Drink 2009-12
From one of the state's pioneers of fine Syrah. Sweet, super-spicy, very aromatic, almost burgundian nose - what sort of barrels, I wonder? Extremely flattering wine that and hides its alcohol pretty well. I probably wouldn't really pick it as a Syrah until the dry, savoury finish but it's a good wine - if you can take the alcohol! 15.3%

Gordon Brothers Syrah 2005 Columbia Valley (16.5 pts) Drink 2007-10
Thick and rather syrupy. Some complexity and it could be a useful sleeping draught?

Betz Family, La Serenne Syrah 2007 Yakima Valley (16 pts) Drink 2010-13
Not submitted to BA but, like all the wines in this section apart from the Gordon Brothers example, kindly carried across the Atlantic for me to taste by Gary Werner of Washington Wine. Naughty heavy bottle. Very dark. Savoury, leathery nose and then notable sweetness on the palate. Very dramatic and flashy - not that much Syrah character and possibly very slightly too obvious acidity and alcohol on the finish but certainly a well made wine from Master of Wine, ex Château Ste Michelle, Bob Betz. 14.8%

Milbrandt, Legacy Syrah 2005 Washington (15.5 pts) Drink 2009-11
Very deep purplish crimson and not much nose though a very sweet start. Not quite enough freshness on the palate even though I served it reasonably cool). There's a little Syrah leatheriness on the finish but overall the impression is of sweetness and a lot of alcohol on the finish. 14.6%

For additional notes from Jancis Robinson on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and blends, please visit www.jancisrobinson.com.

• News